(Written
ten years ago during our first visit to Patzcuaro, one which Gundi called our
best holiday ever. Ten years later, we are just returned from our second visit - a full month this time - probably an even more rewarding stay! This pueblo magico
has lost none of its charm and has barely changed in the intervening decade.
How many places around the world can make this claim?)
A magical hour in a magical place. Early Sunday evening, in the
Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, Patzcuaro, Michoacan , Mexico , the Americas
The lights along the six portales of the palisaded
rectangle are all of a diffused yellow, as if a thousand candles have just been
lit. The six centuries-old leafy ash trees are fluttering in the light breeze,
the birds are all atwitter in the high branches, and dark is newly descended.
The central circular pool in the park, guarded by Don Vasco, is placid and
mirrors the lighted scene above, while coy young lovers tangle, forming a ring
around its rim. Whole families are out de paseo, dressed in their Sunday
best, reveling in the fresh early Spring air. Toy ponies transport wide-eyed
toddlers in a lap of the pathways; exuberant little girls with flowing black
hair, red and pink dresses, long white socks, and shiny black shoes skip,
scooter and bicycle by, and a tiny year and a half-old boy hoots with delight
as he plays peek-a-boo around the massive girth of a limed-white tree trunk.
His mother happily passes him over to a complete stranger so that she can share
in the joy and wonder of being that innocent age. Cars trundle in slow-motion
over the cobble-stoned streets, some emanating a deep boom-box bass beat. The
atmosphere is gentle, sweet, beguiling as natives and visitors mingle, embracing
the warmth of sharing this time together, at leisure and in peace.
Restaurants serve food, bars purvey drinks, artists show their
landscape paintings, artisans display their crafts, vendors peddle clothing and
toys, ice creams and pastries. Most is locally produced. In the adjacent mercado,
they are just shutting up shop for the day. The array of colorful fresh produce
is staggering – papayas, mangoes, guayabas, pineapples, melons, bananas,
coconuts, strawberries, blackberries, apples, oranges, limes, lemons, tomatoes,
avocadoes, potatoes, onions, herbs of all kinds, cauliflowers, cabbages, beans,
corn, beets, carrots, meats, fish, you name it…. At the food stands, mamas
and papas and their niños huddle around hot pots of steaming
stews; tortillas are warmed as a base for sauces and fillings. Smells
and sounds pepper the air, and colour suffuses the scene.
